The grey clouds to the east, casting the Cariboo Mountains in a relief that you couldn’t quite call sharp, receive the first trace of light. Staring east where the street drops off downhill, I see this night end in a frame of beetle-killed pines and darkened houses. A dusting of frost turns the grass into tiny, sterling silver blades that fail to pierce the soles of my boots. They do a better job on my mind.
Though, after yesterday, my mind seems suddenly vulnerable.
I make a fist with my right hand, then my left. The tendons, still stiff and sleepy, pull taught under my skin. My fingers are icy nubs; useless to handle the newspaper I just pulled out of the mailbox. I pull my shoulders back and attempt to stand up straight, meet the morning head-on with head held high. I’d be lying if I said this was easy so early.
The sulfuric pulp mill smell begins to permeate my senses and I grind my teeth at it. It’s better than the inexplicable rendered-meat smell of beef extract that seemed to fill the air yesterday—but not by much.
Somewhere in the distance a dog barks, a siren sounds, a car engine whines. This is Prince George in the morning.
And what I really want right now is a cigarette.
Back inside, my second cup of coffee warming my fingers, I flip back and forth through the five available cable news networks learning all I can about traders, guns and money. But my stomach tells me it’s far too early for lies and propaganda, so I turn the television off and go about preparing for my day.
I brush my teeth, I wash my face, I run my hand over the stubble on my head and jaw. I look at myself in the mirror. Every day there are surprises here. I am constantly saying to myself, “Is that a wrinkle?” or “Is that a grey patch in my beard?” or “Is that hair? On my back? Jesus!” At some point or another, male pattern baldness stops being a hypothetical to be thrown around when discussing cultural vanity with your friends and starts being a reason to make sure you never run out of fresh razor blades.
Sooner or later, we all fall apart. The centre cannot hold and youth does start to seem wasted on the young.
I throw on the black military style jacket with the too-long-sleeves, drape the green and black knit scarf around my neck, put my keys in my pocket and head out into the pale blue world.
On Central Ave my boots make a dry, crackling sound against the gravel—like hard rubber jaws crunching concrete crackers. And listen, if more than ten minutes go by on Central Ave and you haven’t seen a logging truck laden with evidence of the death of another acre of forest, something has gone horribly wrong. Somewhere there may be a driver standing at the side of a logging road next to an overturned truck praying help comes before a hungry bear who has yet to fatten himself sufficiently for hibernation.
In the southeast, where the sky is pink with the threat of another day, you can see where snow has begun to stick at higher elevations. Whether the sky is overcast or whether the sun has already won its daily victory over the stars for luminous dominance you can’t quite tell. What you can tell is that it’s not yet light enough for people to feel safe driving without their headlights and I squint into every pair of glowing orbs that approach in the vague hope that behind some windscreen or another I’ll see a face awash in something other than Sartre-ian anxiety.
Where the muscles of my back tie into my spine I am tight, bother and thought have conspired against my comfort here and I find myself resenting my own mind. But like I said, it does seem vulnerable lately.
Outside the mall I stop to tighten my laces. Down on one knee I watch an older man; svelte and straight—a Sikh with a turban and an impressive white beard—exit the mall and light a cigarette a few feet away.
I stand up and say, “Excuse me, sir, I hate to be a bother but would you happen to have a spare?” I put two fingers to my lips to indicate that I mean a cigarette.
He reaches into his coat, extracts a pack of cigarettes and holds it open to me. I take one and he offers a lighter.
“I like your haircut,” he says, smiling. “You know Buddhists shave their heads to deny their vanity?”
“Yes, and Mohawk warriors do it because they see their hair as a gift from the creator and they refuse to involve the creator in petty human conflict,” I say.
The old man nods. “That’s a lofty enough reason, we Sikhs keep our hair long to acknowledge the perfection of God’s creation. Are you a Mohawk warrior?”
“No. Not really.”
“Then why do you shave your head, spiritual reasons?”
“I’m an atheist,” I say. “I do it because it feels nice. And because I’m losing my hair anyway.”
The Sikh takes this in and considers it a moment. He plays with his beard and looks away; I take a few drags off the cigarette. Finally he says, “I wish I had your courage.”
“My courage?”
“To live without a god.”
Now it is my turn to look away, to play with my beard, to engage in thought. “It’s not courage,” I say. “Not unless you equate courage with honesty. It’s just an admission that I have serious doubts that can only be explained by denying the existence of a supreme being.”
“And doubt is good, in your mind?”
“Doubt is as close to holy as anything gets in my mind.”
“And you’re not afraid of doubt?”
It’s about this time that the truly bizarre nature of this conversation begins to dawn on me. I don’t know this man. I’ve seen him before, though. Close to my home, even. And were this conversation, under the same circumstances, taking place in Toronto or Montreal it might seem a little too strange for me to be comfortable. Frankly, I’d be alarmed.
But it’s not, it’s happening in Prince George.
I say, “I was outside on my front lawn at six thirty in the morning today, looking at the first little bit of light over the mountains. I walked here from my home near Spruceland. I watched CNN, CBC Newsworld, CNN Headline News, FOX News and CTV Newsnet for an hour this morning. If I were afraid of doubt, man, I’d never feel safe or comfortable or happy. It’s a choice—an active decision to be sure—but it’s the right one for me as far as I can tell.”
The old man drops his cigarette and grinds it out with his foot. “You know what I like best about Prince George?” he asks.
“No, what?”
“The ability after ten years to be surprised by the people and the conversations you can have with strangers. The philosophers of the entire country run away from degrees and come here, I think. The best of them, anyway.”
An hour later when I leave the mall I pass by my Sikh friend who is again outside having a cigarette. He nods at me and smiles and I do the same. Maybe he’s right about Prince George being a refuge for philosophers fleeing degrees and learning—but I doubt it. This is no place for the timid.
Though, after yesterday, my mind seems suddenly vulnerable.
I make a fist with my right hand, then my left. The tendons, still stiff and sleepy, pull taught under my skin. My fingers are icy nubs; useless to handle the newspaper I just pulled out of the mailbox. I pull my shoulders back and attempt to stand up straight, meet the morning head-on with head held high. I’d be lying if I said this was easy so early.
The sulfuric pulp mill smell begins to permeate my senses and I grind my teeth at it. It’s better than the inexplicable rendered-meat smell of beef extract that seemed to fill the air yesterday—but not by much.
Somewhere in the distance a dog barks, a siren sounds, a car engine whines. This is Prince George in the morning.
And what I really want right now is a cigarette.
Back inside, my second cup of coffee warming my fingers, I flip back and forth through the five available cable news networks learning all I can about traders, guns and money. But my stomach tells me it’s far too early for lies and propaganda, so I turn the television off and go about preparing for my day.
I brush my teeth, I wash my face, I run my hand over the stubble on my head and jaw. I look at myself in the mirror. Every day there are surprises here. I am constantly saying to myself, “Is that a wrinkle?” or “Is that a grey patch in my beard?” or “Is that hair? On my back? Jesus!” At some point or another, male pattern baldness stops being a hypothetical to be thrown around when discussing cultural vanity with your friends and starts being a reason to make sure you never run out of fresh razor blades.
Sooner or later, we all fall apart. The centre cannot hold and youth does start to seem wasted on the young.
I throw on the black military style jacket with the too-long-sleeves, drape the green and black knit scarf around my neck, put my keys in my pocket and head out into the pale blue world.
On Central Ave my boots make a dry, crackling sound against the gravel—like hard rubber jaws crunching concrete crackers. And listen, if more than ten minutes go by on Central Ave and you haven’t seen a logging truck laden with evidence of the death of another acre of forest, something has gone horribly wrong. Somewhere there may be a driver standing at the side of a logging road next to an overturned truck praying help comes before a hungry bear who has yet to fatten himself sufficiently for hibernation.
In the southeast, where the sky is pink with the threat of another day, you can see where snow has begun to stick at higher elevations. Whether the sky is overcast or whether the sun has already won its daily victory over the stars for luminous dominance you can’t quite tell. What you can tell is that it’s not yet light enough for people to feel safe driving without their headlights and I squint into every pair of glowing orbs that approach in the vague hope that behind some windscreen or another I’ll see a face awash in something other than Sartre-ian anxiety.
Where the muscles of my back tie into my spine I am tight, bother and thought have conspired against my comfort here and I find myself resenting my own mind. But like I said, it does seem vulnerable lately.
Outside the mall I stop to tighten my laces. Down on one knee I watch an older man; svelte and straight—a Sikh with a turban and an impressive white beard—exit the mall and light a cigarette a few feet away.
I stand up and say, “Excuse me, sir, I hate to be a bother but would you happen to have a spare?” I put two fingers to my lips to indicate that I mean a cigarette.
He reaches into his coat, extracts a pack of cigarettes and holds it open to me. I take one and he offers a lighter.
“I like your haircut,” he says, smiling. “You know Buddhists shave their heads to deny their vanity?”
“Yes, and Mohawk warriors do it because they see their hair as a gift from the creator and they refuse to involve the creator in petty human conflict,” I say.
The old man nods. “That’s a lofty enough reason, we Sikhs keep our hair long to acknowledge the perfection of God’s creation. Are you a Mohawk warrior?”
“No. Not really.”
“Then why do you shave your head, spiritual reasons?”
“I’m an atheist,” I say. “I do it because it feels nice. And because I’m losing my hair anyway.”
The Sikh takes this in and considers it a moment. He plays with his beard and looks away; I take a few drags off the cigarette. Finally he says, “I wish I had your courage.”
“My courage?”
“To live without a god.”
Now it is my turn to look away, to play with my beard, to engage in thought. “It’s not courage,” I say. “Not unless you equate courage with honesty. It’s just an admission that I have serious doubts that can only be explained by denying the existence of a supreme being.”
“And doubt is good, in your mind?”
“Doubt is as close to holy as anything gets in my mind.”
“And you’re not afraid of doubt?”
It’s about this time that the truly bizarre nature of this conversation begins to dawn on me. I don’t know this man. I’ve seen him before, though. Close to my home, even. And were this conversation, under the same circumstances, taking place in Toronto or Montreal it might seem a little too strange for me to be comfortable. Frankly, I’d be alarmed.
But it’s not, it’s happening in Prince George.
I say, “I was outside on my front lawn at six thirty in the morning today, looking at the first little bit of light over the mountains. I walked here from my home near Spruceland. I watched CNN, CBC Newsworld, CNN Headline News, FOX News and CTV Newsnet for an hour this morning. If I were afraid of doubt, man, I’d never feel safe or comfortable or happy. It’s a choice—an active decision to be sure—but it’s the right one for me as far as I can tell.”
The old man drops his cigarette and grinds it out with his foot. “You know what I like best about Prince George?” he asks.
“No, what?”
“The ability after ten years to be surprised by the people and the conversations you can have with strangers. The philosophers of the entire country run away from degrees and come here, I think. The best of them, anyway.”
An hour later when I leave the mall I pass by my Sikh friend who is again outside having a cigarette. He nods at me and smiles and I do the same. Maybe he’s right about Prince George being a refuge for philosophers fleeing degrees and learning—but I doubt it. This is no place for the timid.